Raising chickens is one of the most rewarding steps you can take toward self-sufficiency. Whether you want fresh eggs, meat, or just natural pest control and free(ish) fertilizer, chickens are an excellent addition to any homestead. In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to get started, from choosing breeds to building a coop and caring for your flock. When your neighbor’s ask “Have you seen the price of eggs lately?”, you can tell them “I can’t remember the last time I bought eggs.”
1️⃣ Choosing the Right Chicken Breed
Not all chickens are the same! Some are great for eggs, some for meat, and some are dual-purpose.
🐣 Best Egg-Laying Breeds (200–300 eggs/year)
✅ Rhode Island Red – Hardy, excellent layers, easy to care for. Egg Color: Light brown Eggs per Year: 250–300
✅ Leghorn – Super productive (white eggs), active birds. Egg Color: White Eggs per Year: 280–320
✅ Ameraucana – Friendly, hardy birds that lay beautiful blue eggs. Egg Color: Blue Eggs per Year: 200–250
🍗 Best Meat Breeds (Fast-growing, tender meat)
✅ Cornish Cross – Ready for butchering in 6–8 weeks. Must be butchered or develops serious health problems and dies anyway. Fast to maturity and not meant for long life.
✅ Freedom Ranger – Slower growth (9–11 weeks), better foraging.
✅ Bresse – Known for premium meat quality. Egg Color: Cream/Light brown Eggs per Year: 150–200
🥚🍗 Best Dual-Purpose Breeds (Eggs + Meat)
✅ Australorp – Heavy layers and good meat birds. Egg Color: Light brown Eggs per Year: 250–300
✅ Wyandotte – Cold-hardy, friendly, decent layers. Egg Color: Light brown Eggs per Year: 200–250
✅ Sussex – Productive and great for foraging. Egg Color: Light brown Eggs per Year: 220–260
✅ Buff Orpington – Docile, good winter layers. Egg Color: Light brown Eggs per Year: 200–280
✅ Plymouth Rock – Good layers with friendly personalities. Egg Color: Light brown Eggs per Year: 200–250
💡 Tip: If you’re mainly raising chickens for eggs, go for Rhode Island Reds or Australorps. If you want to process meat, Cornish Cross is the go-to breed.
2️⃣ Setting Up a Chicken Coop
Your coop is your flock’s home base—it needs to be secure, spacious, and easy to maintain. Everything likes to eat chicken just as much as you do. Protect your flock.
🏠 Coop Size & Space Requirements
- Inside the Coop: 2–3 sq. ft. per bird (minimum).
- Outside Run: 8–10 sq. ft. per bird for a healthy, happy flock.
- Nesting Boxes: 1 box per 3–4 hens (12×12 inches).
- Roosting Bars: Chickens prefer to sleep off the ground—provide at least 8–10 inches per bird.
🛡️ Predator Protection
- Use ½-inch hardware cloth instead of chicken wire (sturdier).
- Bury fencing 6–12 inches underground to stop digging predators.
- Lock up the coop at night—raccoons, foxes, and coyotes love an easy meal.
💡 Tip: Automatic coop doors, feeders and waterers are a great investment to keep predators out and let the chickens out in the morning without extra work.
3️⃣ Feeding & Watering Your Chickens
Chickens eat a mix of grains, proteins, and greens, and they love foraging for bugs.
🥄 Feed Options
✅ Starter Feed (0–8 weeks) – High-protein (20–24%) for chick growth.
✅ Grower Feed (8–18 weeks) – Moderate protein (16–18%) to transition to adult feed.
✅ Layer Feed (18+ weeks) – Includes calcium for strong eggshells. If you have roosters, you probably don’t want to feed exclusively layer feed. Too much calcium is bad is bad for roosters.
✅ Scratch Grains & Kitchen Scraps – Treats only! (No onions, chocolate, avocado, or raw potatoes.)
💧 Watering Tips
- 1 gallon per 3–4 hens per day.
- Use heated waterers in winter to prevent freezing.
- Keep water elevated to prevent contamination.
💡 Tip: Apple cider vinegar (1 tbsp. per gallon of water) helps digestion and prevents bacteria buildup.
4️⃣ Managing Egg Production
If you’re raising chickens for eggs, you want them laying consistently.
🥚 How to Maximize Egg Production
✅ Provide at least 14 hours of light per day (use a low-wattage LED in winter).
✅ Keep stress levels low—avoid sudden feed changes or predator attacks.
✅ Collect eggs daily to prevent egg-eating habits. It’s a hard habit to break and other chickens will soon learn the behavior if it starts happening.
✅ Calcium supplements (oyster shells) keep eggshells strong.
💡 Tip: If your hens stop laying, check for stress, diet changes, or molting season.
5️⃣ Raising Chicks vs. Buying Hens
🐣 Raising Chicks (More Work, More Rewarding)
✅ Requires heat lamps or brooders for the first 6 weeks.
✅ More bonding time—chicks get used to you.
✅ You know exactly what they’ve been fed/cared for.
🐓 Buying Adult Hens (Easier, Less Time-Consuming)
✅ Start getting eggs immediately (if they’re old enough).
✅ No need for a brooder or chick feed.
✅ Might take time for them to adjust to your coop.
💡 Tip: If you’re brand new, starting with pullets (young hens) is the easiest way to go. Straight run means that you have a chance of getting both hens and roosters. Straight run can cost less but roosters aren’t very good at laying eggs.
6️⃣ Common Health Issues & Care Tips
Keeping chickens healthy and disease-free is key to a thriving flock.
🐔 Common Health Issues
- Parasites (mites, lice) → Dust baths and diatomaceous earth help prevent infestations.
- Respiratory Illness → Keep coops well-ventilated to avoid ammonia buildup.
- Egg Binding → Lack of calcium or dehydration can cause hens to struggle laying eggs.
💊 Basic First Aid Kit
✅ Electrolytes & probiotics for stress.
✅ Blu-Kote (antiseptic spray) for minor wounds.
✅ Vaseline for frostbite prevention in winter.
✅ Apple cider vinegar to boost gut health.
💡 Tip: Healthy chickens should be active, bright-eyed, and alert. If a hen seems lethargic, separate her and observe for signs of illness.
Final Thoughts: Raising Chickens is Easier Than You Think!
Starting your first flock doesn’t have to be complicated. Pick the right breed, build a secure coop, and feed them well—you’ll have a self-sufficient egg supply in no time!
🚀 Want to get started? Check out our recommended chicken coops, feeders, and egg-laying essentials!
